LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STATES*©F AMERICA. 



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liNSTRUCTION BOOK 



ON 



RliG SPliJlISti 



BY 

FRMCIS L LINCOLN. 



M^ABREN, MASS. 
HERALD PRINTING COMPANY. 

1885. 



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■< 



Entered a<;<;ordiiig to Act of Congress, in the year 1885, 

By FRANCIS L. LINCOLN, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 



a 



■ififi 



PREFACE. 

The object of this little book is to give help 
and instruction to those who are engaged in this 
department of mill work. It imparts that knowl- 
edge which only years of thorough study and ob- 
servation can give. It has been carefully pre- 
pared l)y an experienced Spmner, who has given 
years of study to it, in order to benefit and help 
those who are interested in the Spinning depart- 
ment. 

Francis L. Lincoln, Author. 



CONTENTS. 



1. The First Thing to do wlien going into a strange room 
to take charge. 

2. To see that your Draughts, Twists and Travelers are 
right, etc. 

3. How to pack Yarn closely on the Bobbin. 

4. To see that yourThrt-ad Guides are 

5. About Spindles, Rings, and Steel Rolls. 

6. How Top Rolls should be kept in order to make good 
yarn weight on toj) rolls, etc, 

7. Bands; how they should be run, etc. 

8. What to do when you h:ive long staple Cotton. 

9. What Twists should be in the hank roving, and why. 

10. How Roving should be when run double, and how to 
get it single. 

11. How to run colored Roving double on spinning frames. 

12. How Waste should be run through the lappers, etc. 

13. How to prove that uneven work is not made on Spin- 
ning Frames. 

14. How bunches can be made on Spinfaing Frames and 
Spoolers. 

15. How coarse threads are made. 

16. Caution to be observed in changing from one number 
of yarn to another. 

17. What to do when Cotton is poor. 

18. Why it is cheaper for the Company to wind the yarn 
hard on the bobbins and spools. 

19. If yarn is knitted, where the trouble is. 

20. How snarled yarn is made, et«. 

21. How to avoid making lap waste in spinning room. 



22. How to avoid making roving waste in sinnning room. 

23. When wastes should be picked up, 

24. What the drauglit change gear sliould be, Avhen you 
run colored Avork. 

25. System in dofling the frames and gauge to go by. 

26. How to get speed of cylinder and spindles. 

27. To know what pulley will drive your cylinder faster 
or slower. 

28. How to take up a belt or let it out, when yon change 
l)ulleys. 

29. Kule lor finding what number of twists to the inch 
for any number of yarn. 

oO. Rcpiare Koot of numbers, fiom 18 to 30, with twist. 

31. The role for finding the draught for any number of 
yarn. 

32. The gear required to run another luunber on the same 
hank roving. 

33. Tlie hank roving required to run another number of 
yarn with saine draught. 

34. Rule to find the draught change gear required, when 
dianging from one number to another on a frame or 
mule, when the draught and roving both have to be 
altered. 

35. How to find the twist gear by square root of the num- 
ber. 

30. How to get twist pulley for another number of yarn. 

37. How to get the exact twist in yarn. 

38. Ho^ to get the weigljt on top rolls. 

39. !S(iuare Root table for the twist of yarn. 



Instruction book. 



THE FIKST THING. 

1. The first thing to do Avhen going into a 
strange room to take charge, is to learn the names 
and dispositions of your lielp, and their ability. 
TiX doing this it will save you some trouble. 1 o 
not turn off help the first day you go into a room 
to take charge. Get the good will of your help 
and keep them; and when they learn your ways 
and know you mean just what you say. every 
thing will be pleasant for them and you also. 

DRAUGHT?, TWISTS AND TEAVELERS. 

2. To see that your Draughts, Twists and Trav- 
elers are right for the numbers of yarns you are 
spinning. Travelers govern the twist. AVhen 
the bobbins are full there is more twist in than 
when it first starts. Ha'e them heavy enough 
to keep the ends straight. If Travelers are poor 
the work will run bad. Change them on fiue 
work once in three or four montlis, clean them 
every doff, and touch the ring with a little oily 
waste. If Eraught gears bind, spinners cannot 
keep their ends up. 



8 

PACKING YARN ON BOBBINS. 

3. To see that tlie yarn is packed closely on the 
bobbin. The way to tell is to put an empty bob- 
bin on, and run one layer of yarn upon it; if the 
threads do not lay c'ose together, run your mo- 
tion slower. In this way jou get more length of 
yarn to the bobbin. 

THREAD GUIDES. 

4. To see that your thread guides are central 
with the bobbin below. If a crease has been 
made by the thread running through it, take it 
out and put in a new one. 

SPINDLES. 

.5. To see that the spindles are in the center of 
the rings, and that your rings are in good condi- 
tion. A pool' raig will make two-thirds more 
waste than a good one, and the frame requires 
three times the cleaning that it does with a good 
ring. Slip your tinger round inside of the ring; 
if it feels notchy the ring is poor. Take it out. 
Rings should be looked over every time you 
scour. That should be every six months. Steel 
rolls should be rubbed with one-twenty emery 
cloth once a year, with a little oil. 

TOP ROLLS. 

H. See that your top rolls are kept in good con- 



9 

dition. Look them all over once a month if that 
will do, if not look them over of tener. New rolls 
should always be put in the front, poorest ones 
in the back. New rolls should always be cali- 
pered at each end; if they do not caliper the 
same at each end of the roll, the roll should 
not be used, as it would spoil the yarn, and spin- 
ners could not keep up their ends. New rolls 
sliould be oiled when they are put in to run. 
Neck of front rolls should be oiled morning and 
noon. All of the rolls should be oiled once a 
week. The weight should be the same on all 
top rolls. In order to do this your saddles must 
be all alike, and must not hug the neck of the" 
roll. Stirrups should be all of the same length 
and style. 'Jhe levers should be all of the same 
length and style; and weights should be all of 
the same heft. Stirrups must clear the rolls, and 
use double saddles. Shell rolls should be clean- 
ed and oiled once a month, with lard oil. Use 
vinegar with one-third water to clean top rolls. 
EoUer hooks sliould not be used on steel rolls. 

CARRYING. 

7. A small band carrying one spindle is better 
than a large band carrying a number of sphidles. 
It makes better yarn, and not one-third the 
waste. Bands should be put on tight; and the 
spinner should call the band boy soon as one 
comes off, to put on a new one. Bands should 
all be looked over once a week, and all slack 
2 



10 

ones cut off and new ones put on, A slack band 
makes soft yarn. If your frame does not run up 
to speed, you will get soft yarn. A dry spindle 
will also make soft yarn. Keep your spindles 
properly oiled. 

LONG STAPLE COTTON. 

8. For long staple cotton you must spread 
the bottom and top rolls a little to avoid cockley 
yarn. Long staple cotton does not require so 
much twist on spinning as short. 

ROVING. 

9. Too much twist in roving makes bad yarn, 
and spoils the top rolls on spiiniing frames. The 
square root of the number, is about the twist for 
roving. It gives the Carder a chance to keep up 
with the spinning, and gives the Spinner a 
chance to make a better quality of yarn. If 
there is too much twist in the roving, you can- 
not draw it on spinning frames without spread- 
ing the rolls; but then it will spoil the top rolls. 
Keep your numbers even if you can. Size from 
every fine speeder and average it every day, and 
examine the yarn every time you size, to see if it 
is good. By doing so it may save you considera- 
ble trouble. 

TWO-ROVING. 

10. In running two-roving together, always 



11 

have them of the same hank, because if one is of 
one hank, and the other of another, there will be 
more twist in one than in the other, and will not 
make as good yarn, and will not draw as even as 
they would if they were of the same twist or hank. 
To know what the two hanks would be single; 
you must add the two hanks together-, and divide 
that by four to get it single. 

DOUBLE WORK. 

11. The way to run double work on spinning 
frames. Have the white put in the top, if you 
have double creels; and colored work in the bot- 
tom. Piece the back roving in the top with the 
back roving in the bottom. Front in with front 
makes the yarn more even. 

WASTE. 

12. Waste must be run through the lapper all 
by itself, not mix it with the good cotton; and if 
one section of cards will rim one lap a day and 
keep the waste up, you may run one; if it makes 
two laps put on two sections, (one lap on each 
section,) and the work or yarn w^ill be more even. 

UXEVEI!^^ WORK. 

13. How to prove that uneven work is not 
made on spinning frames. See that your draught 
^ears do not bind; if they do, you will have une- 



12 

ven yarn. Put in new rolls in front, middle and 
back. See that your frame runs up to rij,dit speed 
and roller belt is tight. See that the rings and 
travelers are good. See that stirrups and saddles 
are in place. Then if your yarn is uneven the 
trouble is in the carding room. Roving bobbins 
should be marked for each speeder; and the 
spinner run each separate on his frames. Then 
if you had bad work you could tell very quick 
which speeder it belonged to. 

BUNCHES. 

14. How bunches can be made on spinning 
frames. By piecing on roving and leaving the 
end to run through double. By piecing up ends 
and not twisting on smoothly. By wiping out the 
rovmg rack and the waste catching on the roving 
and running through the rolls. By Mdping off 
thread-boards, waste catching on to the ends and 
spinning. By rolls not being kept clean and oil- 
ed. By spinners not being careful enough when 
they clean their rolls. ' By spmners brushing and 
. cleaning their frames. By brushing down over 
head. By spinners not keeping their clearers 
clean. The carder should be just as particular 
about making his roving as the spinner is about 
making his yarn; then there will be good work 
all through. A dry front roll will make bunches 
on spinning frames, and will do the same on speed- 
ers. Sweepers should not blow their waste under 
the frames. Bunches can be made on spoolers 
by thread guides not being wide enough for the 



13 

tlireads to iiass through. A bunch will collect 
and stop the spool. Spooler tenders lift it over 
on to the spool. 

COARSE THREADS. 

15. How coarse threads are made. First, by 
coarse roving; second by spinners letting two ro- 
ving run through the guide; third, by one end 
catching on to another and running on to the 
bobbin; fourth, sometimes wliere there is two 
ends on one boss, one end will break and catch 
onto the other and spin. If the trouble is in the 
spinning, you untwist the thread and you will 
find two threads instead of one. If not two 
threads, the trouble is in the carding room. 

CHANGING NU3IBERS. 

16. When you change from one number to 
another see that the motion runs right to pack 
the yarn closely on the bobbin; then have your 
travelers just heavy enough to keep the ends 
straight. By running a heavy traveler you pack 
the yarn harder on the bobbin. I do not believe 
in runnning a traveler heavy enough to pull down 
the ends, but heavy enough to keep the ends 
straight. 

POOR COTTON. 

17. When cotton is poor you may need a little 



14 

more twist in tlie yarn; sometimes when cotton 
is poor, the warp spinning will run bad. In this 
case you may run your warp one Ji umber heavier 
and mule filling one number lighter. Waste 
work requires more twist than good cotton. 

ECONOMY OF HEAVY TRAVELERS. 

18. It is cheaper for the company to run heavy 
travelers, and wind the yarn hard on the bobbins 
and spools. You get more length of yarn and a 
better quality. Will not cost so much for spool- 



KNITTED YARN. 

19. If the yarn is knitted the trouble is in the 
carding room, as you cannot make knitted yarn 
on spinning frames. 

SNARLED Y^ARN. 

20. How snarled yarn is made, By spinners 
not finding the end and breaking a thread on the 
bobbin to piece up by. By having the taper 
shorter on top of the bobbin than on the bottom, 
so when the doffers take the full bobbins off, the 
thread pulls over the top and snarls. To avoid 
the above, lower the arm where it is attached to 
the frame, (the arm that the heart rider is attach- 
ed to). About one-quarter of an inch will be 
enough. You want the taper longer at the top 
than at the bottom. 



15 

LAP WASTE. 

21. How to avoid making lap waste in spinning 
room. By keeping spinners where tlieir work is, 
and by not giving spinners any more work than 
tliey can keep up. By having good doffers and 
good starters. If doffers and starters are not good 
they will make more waste than then- wages will 
come to, E offers should wind the thread four 
times around the bobbin. Starters should not 
wind on to bobbins when there is yarn on to piece 
up by. 

ROVING WASTE. 

22. How to avoid making roving waste in spin- 
ning room. By letting it all run through the 
rolls into yarn. All bad roving should be sent 
back into the carding room, where it belongs, ev- 
ery day. 

PICKING UP WASTES. 

23. All wastes should be picked up, looked 
over, weighed and carried off where it belongs, 
every day. You will find it much better than the 
old w^ay. Xot so apt to accumulate. 

COLOEED WORK. 

24. Colored ^vork always runs heavy. You 
want one tooth less draught change gear than 



16 

your hank roving figures for. But put in the 
same twist. 

DOFFING. 

25. System in doffing tiie frames. To save ma- 
king waste and trouble in the room, doff every 
other row right through, then go back and doff 
the remaining rows through. In doffing this way 
the spinners can tend more sides and not make 
so much waste, as any spinner knows, or ought to 
know. Frames run better when half full than on 
an empty bobbin. One frame stopped at a time 
to doff, is all that ought to be permit'.ed. From 
three to four minutes is long enough time to doff 
any frame with four doffers. The first frame 
should be filled to a guage astride the bobbin. 
Do not go by the clock, as the yarn is sometimes 
heavy. This guage is the best guide I ever had 
in doffing. 

SPEED OF CYLINDER. 

26. How to get speed of cylinder. See what 
main line runs; then get diameter of counter pul- 
ley that carries the cylinder below. The pulley 
above is called a driver. Then multiply the speed 
of main line by diameter of counter pulley that 
carries the cylinder, and divide that by the diam- 
eter of the pulley that is on the cylinder, which 
is called the driven. Then to get speed of spin- 
dles, get diameter of cylinder, and multiply the' 



speed of cylinder by diameter of cylinder, and di- 
vide that by the diameter of the whorl. 

SPEEDING PULLEYS. 

27. To know what pulley will drive your cylin- 
der faster or slower. Multiply the speed you 
would like to have it run, by diameter of pulley 
overhead, that carries the cylinder, and divide 
that by the speed you are now running. Will 
give you pulley required. 

TAKING UP BELTS. 

28. To know how to take up a belt, when you 
change pulleys. If your belt is tight enough with 
the pulley you now have on, for every inch that 
your pulley is smaller than you now have on, take 
out one inch and three-quarters of belting. If 
larger, right the reverse. 

TW^ISTS. 

29. To know what number of twists to the inch, 
for any number of yarn. On warp, multiply the 
square root of the number by 5. Frame filling 
by 4, and mule filling by 3i. For every ten num- 
bers below thirty take away two twist to the inch. 
For every ten numbers above thirty, add two. 

3 



18 

SQUARE EOOT. 

30. Square Root of numbers from 18 to 30. 
These twists are within a fraction. 



NUMBERS] SQ EOOT 


Warp Twist 


Filling Twist 


13 


3.605 


15 per inch 


Hi per inch. 


14 


3.741 


15i " " 


12 " 


18 


4.242 


19 " " 


15 *' " 


19 


4.350 


m " " 


15 " •' 


20 


4.472 


20i " " 


IH " " 


21 


4,582 


21 " " 


16 " " 


22 


4.(590 


2H " " 


16i " " 


23 


4.796 


22 " " 


17 " " 


24 


4.899 


22i " " 




25 


5.000 


24 " 


19 " " 


26 


5.099 


24i " " 




27 


5.196 


25 " " 


19f " 


28 


5.291 


25i " •' 


21 " " 


29 


5.385 


26 *' " 




30 


5.477 


27i " " 


22 " " 



DRAUGHT FOR YARN. 

31. To know the draught for any number of 
yarn. Write the number you are spinning or 
want to spin, add two ciphers to it; divide that 
by the hank roving that you are spinning from, 
to get draught. Example; hank roving 225, No. 
yarn 18. Add two ciphers, (1800); divided by 225 
gives 8 draught. 

GEAR REQUIRED. 

32. This is the way I was taught to figure 



19 

cli"niights of different numbers of yarn. If you 
want to run another number with the same hank 
roving, multiply the smallest clrauglit change gear 
by the number you are spinning, and divide that 
by the number you want to spin, and that will 
give you the gear required. 

ROVING REQUIIfED. 

33. If you want to spin another number witli 
same draught, write your number that you want 
to spin (as above) and divide that by the draught. 
That will give you hank roving required. 

TO FIND DEAUGHT CHANGE GEAE. 

34. Rule to find the draught change gear re- 
quired. When you change from one number 
to another on a frame or mule, when the draught 
and roving both have to be changed, multiply the 
number of the yarn being spun by the hank rov- 
ing desired, and that product by the number of 
teeth in the draught change gear; using that for 
a dividend. Then multiply the number of the 
yarn desired by the hank roving, using that for a 
divisor; that product divided will tell the draught 
change gear that is required. 

TWIST GEAE. 

35. The way I was taught to find the twist gear 
by square root of the numl^er of yarn. Multiply 



20 

the twist gear in use by the square root of the 
number being spun, and divide that product by 
the square root of the number you want to si)in. 
That will give you the twist gear required. 

TWIST PULLEY. 

3(5. To get tlie twist pulley for another number 
of yarn. See what twist the pulley gives that 
you have on, and multiply the twist that you have 
in, by the pulley that is on, and divide that pro- 
duct by the twist you would like to put in to get 
the pulley required. 

TWIST OF YARN. 

37. To know how to get the exact twist in yarn. 
Have your roll belt tight, and band also. Count 
the revolutions of the spindle to the rollers once. 
Divide that hj the circumference of the roll, 
which is 3 14-100 inches. Exami)le. Say 86 turns 
to the rolls once. 3 14-100) 80.00 turns, (27 38-100 
twists to the inch. 

WEIGHT ON TOP ROLLS. | 

38. To know the weight on top rolls. You 
must measure the distance from where the stir- 
rup is attached to the lever to where the wire is 
attached tliat holds the weight; then multiply 
the distance by whatever the weight weighs, and 
divide that product by the exact distance from 



2\ 



where the lever is attached to the set screw, to 
where the stirrup is attached. 

SQUARE ROOT TABLE FOR THE TWIST OF YARNS. 
39 



>^ 
c 
d 


1 
a; 


o 

i 


o 
o 


6 


c 
o 

i 


d 


o 
o 
Ph 


o 
d 


1 

Ph 


1 


1.000 


19 


4.358 


37 


6.082 


55 


7.416 


73 


8.544 


2 


1.414 


20 


4.472 


38 


6.164 


56 


7.483 


74 


8.602 


3 


1.732 


21 


4 582 


39 


6.244 


57 


7.549 


75 


8.660 


4 


2.000 


22 


4.690 


40 


6 324 


58 


7.615 


76 


8.717 


5 


2.230 


23 


4.795 


41 


6.403 


59 


7.681- 


77 


8.774 1 


(3 


2.449 


24 


4.898 


42 


6.480 


60 


7.745 


78 


8.831 


7 


2.645 


25 


5.000 


43 


6.557 


61 


7.810 


79 


8.888 


8 


2.828 


26 


5.099 


44 


6.633 


62 


7.874 


80 


8.944 


9 


3.000 


27 


5.196 


45 


6.708 


63 


7.937 


81 


9.000 


10 


3.162 


28 


5.291 


4(3 


6.782 


64 


8.000 


82 


9.055 


11 


3.316 


29 


5.385 


47 


6.855 


65 


8.062 


83 


9.110 


12 


3.464 


30 


5.477 


48 


6.928 


66 


8.124 


81 


9.165 


13 


3.605 


31 


5.567 


49 


7.000 


67 


8.185 


85 


9.219 


14 


3.741 


32 


5.656 


50 


7.071 


68 


8.246 


86 


9.273 


lb 


3.872 


33 


5.744 


51 


7.141 


69 


8.306 


87 


9.327 


16 


4.000 


34 


5.830 


52 


7.211 


70 


8.366 


88 


9.380 


17 


4.123 


35 


5.916 


53 


7.280 


71 


8.426 


89 


9.433 


18 


4.242 


36 


6.000 


54 


7,348 


72 


8.485 


90 


9.486 



^^ If any Spinner purchasing this book has 
trouble with his work, he will receive aid from 
me (if in my power) by stating all particulars. 

All orders for this book should be addressed to 
Francis L. Lincoln, P. O. Box 35, Warren, Mass. 
Price One Dollar. 



/ ( 



